The history of perfumes: when scents were genderless
That's a phrase that comes up often when I talk about perfume:
"Is this a perfume for women or for men?"
Even I try to talk more about a distinctive scent , a floral, lively perfume… But sometimes I let go and admit that I have already said: “It’s true, it can seem ‘masculine’…” to make things easier… Arf.
What if I told you that this question does n't really make sense ? For centuries, perfumes had no gender. Men and women freely wore scents that we would now call "feminine" or "masculine," simply because they liked them.
Perfumes in the Middle Ages and the Renaissance
Before perfume became a gendered object, it was primarily a sign of refinement, status, and self-care . In the Middle Ages, people didn't yet speak of "perfume for men" or "for women": they wore what smelled good, what allowed them to mask body odors or to affirm their rank.
Floral and aromatic essences such as rose, jasmine, orange blossom, and sandalwood were used by everyone, men and women alike. European nobles, and especially members of royal courts, regularly perfumed their clothes, gloves, and even wigs. Some perfumed waters were also used to purify the air or mask odors in towns and castles .
During the Renaissance, the use of perfume became even more refined. The Italian and French courts imported precious essences from the Orient and Italy. Perfumers began to create sophisticated blends, and perfume became a true tool of seduction and social distinction , worn freely by both men and women.
Here, perfume was not a matter of gender, but a matter of pleasure, style and identity . One could smell rose on a man's coat or cedar on a woman's dress, and no one saw a contradiction in it.
Kings and their fragrances
In the 17th and 18th centuries, perfume transcended gender . Aristocratic men wore colognes with citrus and sometimes floral notes , while women opted for more complex blends, often based on jasmine, iris, amber, or sandalwood. The important thing was not to conform to a gender, but to display one's refinement and status .
Louis XIV, the famous "Sun King," was passionate about perfumes. He wore several fragrances every day, primarily floral and oriental notes , such as jasmine, rose, iris, musk, and amber. By our modern standards, some of these fragrances would be considered feminine , but for him, they were part of everyday masculine life and a sign of prestige.
A few decades later, in the 18th century, court ladies like Marie Leszczynska and Marie Antoinette favored floral and fruity perfumes, often purchased from renowned pharmacies or perfumers. They perfumed their clothes, sachets, and accessories, creating refined olfactory bubbles around themselves. The men of the court sometimes used the same notes, demonstrating that perfume was not yet gendered .
The Age of Marketing: When Perfume Becomes Gendered
It was only in the 20th century , with the industrialization and commercialization of perfumes, that the distinction between "men's perfume" and "women's perfume" became established. Floral and sweet notes were attributed to women, while woody, musky, and spicy notes were promoted for men.
This separation was not natural: it was part of a marketing strategy aimed at segmenting the market and creating brand identities. For centuries, scents were shared, mixed, and freely worn .
Wear the perfume we like
Today, the good news is that perfume has once again become a personal matter . Regardless of what society says about "feminine" or "masculine" fragrances, the important thing is to wear what you love.
Like the kings and queens of old, you can choose a fragrance that enchants and defines you , freely and without constraints. So, the next time you hesitate to wear a perfume "for the man" or "for the woman," remember: all fragrances can be worn by whomever desires .
What if you let your emotions choose for you?
Discover your emotional fragrance HERE!
Sources and references
- Turin, Luca and Tania Sanchez. Perfumes: The AZ Guide . Viking, 2008.
- Burr, Chandler. The Perfect Scent: A Year Inside the Perfume Industry in Paris and New York . Henry Holt and Co., 2008.
- Classen, Constance et al. The Taste of Modernity: Senses and Society in Early
- Modern Europe . Berg, 1994 – sections on royal perfumes and their social role.
- Aromatic History Resources – Perfume in the European Courts: 16th–18th Century . https://www.aromatics-history.org